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The replacement strap seems easy to purchase until you see the numbers and specifications on the side: 20/18mm, standard length, 3mm thick, quick-release bars, pin buckle, deployant clasp. All of these details combine to determine whether the strap feels right on the watch or simply fits.
If you’re purchasing the strap for the first time as an aftermarket option, start with fit and work to style. Premium straps are not just about the material alone, as demonstrated by brands like Artem Straps, which focus on dimensions, taper, hardware, and intended use.
Start With Lug Width
The first measurement to get right is the lug width. It is the distance between the inner sides of the watch lugs, in millimetres. It’s typically listed in the manufacturer’s specifications. Otherwise, take the old strap off and use digital callipers or an accurate ruler to find the distance.
If the opening is 20mm, then the strap should be 20mm wide at the lug width. Straps that are too narrow will leave gaps and will allow for movement, while straps that are too wide can compress, rub against the case or fail to properly seat.
Do not presume that two watches with the same case diameter are the same lug width.
Then Check Strap Length
Measure your wrist at the point where the watch is normally worn and compare it with the sizing information provided by the strap manufacturer. Take into account the watch dial itself. There is more wrist room in a large case, and therefore, the same strap length will fit differently on two watches.
A good fit should leave some adjustment in both directions. If a pin buckle regularly closes on the first or last hole, a different strap length may provide a better fit.
Understand Watch Strap Taper
The taper of a watch strap is the narrowing in width at the end of the watch strap from the lug end to the buckle/clasp end. The 20/18mm strap is 20mm wide at the start, decreasing to 18mm at the end.
That small difference can noticeably alter the appearance. A tapered strap can create a more refined and streamlined look around the wrist, while a straight 22/22mm strap maintains the same width from the watch to the buckle.
Taper is also a factor with hardware compatibility. Normally, a buckle or deployant is expected to fit the 18mm end of the 18mm x 20mm 20mm strap rather than the 20mm wide lug.
Thickness Should Match the Watch
The thickness of the watch strap impacts the look and the clearance.
A thin strap can appear small on a heavy dive watch. If the strap is too thick, it can overwhelm a smaller case or not fit in the small springs.
A slim dress watch typically goes with a thinner and more flexible strap. Whereas a dive watch, chronograph, or larger sports watch can support more structure. Consider how the strap flexes as well as its quoted thickness.
Which Watch Strap Material Should You Choose?
Leather suits dress watches and traditional everyday wear, although it generally requires more care around water and perspiration. Rubber is suitable for swimming, hot weather and active use. Sailcloth falls in between, having a more sophisticated appearance and a more technical feel.
The best material for a luxury replacement watch strap is dependent on the specific watch and the type of replacement wanted. Select the one that works for the watch and how you wear it!
Should You Choose Quick-Release or Traditional Spring Bars?
Quick-release spring bars facilitate changing straps. A small lever is located at the bottom of the bar, which retracts the bar for easy removal of the strap without the need of a separate tool.
This is handy for collectors who swap straps regularly and helps minimize the risk of getting scratches on their lugs when performing regular swaps. A usefully selected range example in premium is Artem: a number of ranges have quick-release spring bars across a range of lug widths. It is also notable for its Loop-less HydroFlex system, which demonstrates the integration of strapping and hardware as opposed to the two viewed separately.
If it is a watch that requires a particular heavy-duty curved or OEM bar, traditional spring bars still apply.
Do Not Forget Clasp Compatibility
When using an existing buckle or deployant, use the strap measurement at the buckle end. The 20/18mm strap is most likely to be used with 18mm hardware. The width of the luge and the width of the clasp are independent of each other.
A deployant should also have the right thickness and shape of strap. There are straps for folders and others that are more suited to a pin buckle. That is the reason why you should test the compatibility of the clasps before ordering, not after receiving the strap.
What Should You Check Before Buying a Replacement Watch Strap?
You must follow this order when selecting a strap: first verify the width of the watch’s lugs, determine the length of the strap, check if it has enough taper, verify thickness, select a strap material that would be appropriate for you, and verify that the spring bar and clasp are compatible.
Fit is more important than style, because if the garment doesn’t fit, style doesn’t matter.
The right strap should be proportionate, fit naturally between the straps and close comfortably. Once those basics are covered, even an old familiar watch can seem to feel much better on the wrist.